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Guide 4

Set and care for an automatic watch

An automatic (self-winding) watch is mechanical: a spring powers it, and a rotor winds that spring as you wear it. If it's been sitting in a drawer, it will have stopped — that's normal.

An automatic watch looks like any other from the front — the difference is inside.

Before you start

  • Check the manual: can your movement be hand-wound, and what are its crown positions?
  • Note any time window when the date must not be changed.
  • Keep the watch away from strong magnets while you set it.

Inside an automatic, and the crown

Try it: move the rotor on the case back and watch the front come to life. Pick a part to see what it does.

Simulation · illustration only — real movements, winding and crown positions vary by model.

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Front
Barrel0%Rotor
Case back — drag or tap the rotor

Wind

0% stopped

Stopped. Swing your wrist or drag the rotor to wind it.

Crown

Pushed in. On many automatics, turning the crown here winds the mainspring. Unscrew a screw-down crown first.

Watch 10:08 AM, date 16

Parts

A weighted half-disc that swings as your wrist moves, winding the mainspring through a gear train.

Getting a stopped watch running

  • 1Unscrew the crown (if it screws down)

    Turn anticlockwise until it pops out to the first position. Don't pull yet.

  • 2Wind it (if your movement allows)

    With the crown pushed in (or unscrewed to its first position), turn it gently clockwise. Many movements need around 20–40 turns from stopped — your manual will say. Modern automatics have a slipping mainspring so you can't overwind them by hand, but stop if you feel resistance or anything unusual.

  • 3Set the time and date

    Follow Set your watch: get the AM/PM right using the date, avoid quick-setting the date during the window your manual specifies (often around 9 pm–3 am), then set the time.

  • 4Push in and secure the crown

    Push it fully home and screw it down if applicable. A loose crown lets in water and dust.

  • 5Wear it

    Normal wrist movement keeps it wound. If you only wear it occasionally, it may stop between wears; a short hand-wind gets it going again. A watch winder is optional, not essential.

Power reserve, illustrated

The power reserve is how long a fully wound watch runs off the wrist. Here's how winding and wearing change it, using an example 40-hour reserve.

0 h of 40 h (example)

Illustration only. How much each turn or hour of wear adds depends on the movement and how active you are.

Everyday care

  • Accuracy: mechanical watches typically gain or lose a few seconds a day; this is normal. Resting position overnight (dial up, crown down) can nudge the rate.
  • Magnetism: keep it away from strong magnets — speakers, laptop and tablet magnets, magnetic clasps. A magnetised watch often suddenly runs very fast; a watchmaker can demagnetise it.
  • Water: check the rating, keep the crown screwed down, never operate the crown or pushers underwater, and have seals tested periodically.
  • Knocks: avoid hard impacts, including some sports, which can upset the balance.
  • Cleaning: wipe with a soft cloth; rinse with fresh water only if it's water resistant and the crown is secured.
  • Servicing: follow the manufacturer's recommended interval, or sooner if it starts gaining or losing noticeably.